Gastronomy represents the pinnacle of flavor, culture, heritage, traditions and local expression, experienced through both the food and the people who serve it. Tourism inspires individuals to travel from their home base to various destinations. Gastronomy tourism, therefore, attracts travelers to a destination through unique food experiences.
Here is the official definition by UN Tourism:
Gastronomy is about much more than food. It reflects the culture, heritage, traditions and sense of community of different peoples. It is a way of promoting understanding among different cultures, and of bringing people and traditions closer together.
Tourism is a social, cultural and economic phenomenon which entails the movement of people to countries or places outside their usual environment for personal or business/professional purposes.
In this article, we will share gastronomy tourism insights from the UN Tourism Forum, featuring best practices from the speakers and food experiences curated by the Department of Tourism. This post aims to establish a baseline of the current state of our gastronomy tourism and explore how we can progress from here. These insights are also based on my 18 years of firsthand experience observing the evolution of food and travel in the country. Please quote, link, or refer to this article when using these insights.
FIRST UN TOURISM REGIONAL FORUM
on Gastronomy Tourism for Asia and the Pacific
This is the first UN Gastronomy Tourism Forum in Asia, attended by tourism stakeholders from across the continent and the local tourism and hospitality industry. The gastronomy tourism trend offers significant opportunities for sustainable socio-economic development, cultural exchange, and community well-being. The opening ceremonies featured puso (hanging rice in a woven pouch) and were keynoted by representatives from Basque Culinary Tourism, the Department of Tourism, and the UN Ambassadors of Gastronomy.
Keynote Sandra Carvao: Gastrononomy Tourism – Driving inclusion and sustainability
by Ms. Sandra Carvao, Director, Market Intelligence, Policies and Competitiveness, UN Tourism
Food has become a highly sought-after social currency, driven by the discovery of flavors in a post-COVID hunger for food trips and amplified by the increased adoption of social media. Food experiences are now the top reason people travel to a destination, offering opportunities for educational learning, great bonding sessions with family and friends, and a sense of elevated social status, along with the bragging (mema) rights of having experienced a particular food, restaurant, or culinary destination.
The Best Gastronomy Tourism program should: 
Encourages travellers to visit rural areas and engage in activities with producers. Contributes to the diversification of income sources of producers Creates demand and opportunities for revival and protection of products Creates jobs for disadvantaged communities: women, youth, indigenous people Involves local communities and can promote social and economic empowerment. Stimulates entrepreneurship and investment. Supports capacity-building and skills of local populations. Preserve and promote ancestral traditions and cultural heritage. Contributes to having the culinary legacy passed through generations. Empowers Environmental Sustainability
Keynote Chef Margarita Fores (Philippines): Blending Tourism and Gastronomy for the benefit of people and planet
by Chef Margarita Fores, UN Tourism Ambassador for Responsible Tourism (Philippines)
In what felt like a valedictory speech, Chef Gaita inspired me with her story of promoting Filipino food at Madrid Fusion, conducting food market tours for visiting culinary personalities, and connecting people with the stories behind the dishes, ingredients, and communities. At 65, she is just beginning to connect chefs, break down barriers, and elevate the Filipino gastronomy experience for everyone to benefit from. With her culinary legacy celebrated and assured of continuation by the next generation, she deserves to be part of The Order of National Artists for Culinary (if the Philippines would recognize culinary arts as an art form).
Keynote Chef Vicky Cheng (Hong Kong, China): Gastronomy & Destination Identity: Promoting Localhood Through Food
by Chef Vicky Cheng, VEA & WING Restaurant (Hong Kong, China)
I vividly remember being blown away by the food and cocktail experience when I first tried Vea in Hong Kong in 2015, introduced by Geoffrey Wu. Back then, in a pre-iPhone 7 era, I didn’t fully understand gastronomy. Food trips were defined by a checklist of places to eat, hopping from one spot to another without regard for the terroir or the provenance of the food. Chef Vicky Cheng was already emphasizing the importance of using heritage as a unique identity, introducing diners to local seasonal specialties, and supporting the local community, especially by celebrating limited produce rather than complaining about why local farmers couldn’t produce more.
During lunch, I asked him how he became a UN Ambassador of Gastronomy, and he said he had no clue, as he had never cooked for the UN WTO before and hoped it wasn’t just a token Asian appointment. However, after hearing his talk about promoting “Localhood Through Food” (see his presentation link above), I understood that he exemplifies how to promote Hong Kong culture through its food, seasonal local ingredients, and local producers. I’m inspired to travel to Hong Kong to experience his highly regarded new Chinese restaurant, Wing. This is what gastronomy tourism is all about. The UN Ambassador of Gastronomy award is well-deserved—he has embodied this role for years, and the ambassadorship recognition is just the icing on the cake.
REGIONAL COCKTAIL LUNCH:
Eating Your Way Through the Philippines
During the UN Tourism Forum’s lunch, each DOT regional team presented the food from their respective destinations. There were several challenges: the Shangri-La Mactan ballroom was quite small, there was no kitchen to support this kind of food expo, and Mang-Inasal commercialized the gastronomy experience instead of promoting authentic local purveyors. Despite these challenges, some booths stood out, and I want to highlight and thank them for the exceptional experience.
Chef Tahir Malikol and Chef Miguel Cabel Moreno of the Office of Muslim Affairs and Mindanao Promotions (Omamp) highlighted Halal cuisine with dishes such as Beef Linigil and Chicken Piyanggang. This booth stood out the most in terms of the food’s flavors, the heritage story behind it, and the enthusiasm of the people serving it, eager for you to experience their cuisine.
Chef Jose Mari Alavar Alfaro from the Zamboanga Peninsula (Region 9) presented Curacha con Alavar sauce and Baked Clams. This was my favorite because the quality of the seafood was exceptional, served in the much-celebrated Alavar sauce, and presented by the business owner himself. I am inspired to explore more of Zamboanga’s flavors and meet the chef and producers behind them.
Chef Ronald Ferman, a Culinary Arts Chef Instructor at STI Colleges in General Santos City, featured Fresh Tuna Sashimi to showcase the flavors of SOCKSARGEN (Region XII). Despite the logistical challenges, they successfully highlighted their yellowfin tuna, prized for its firm texture and rich flavor. The Mindanao stalls were much better than their Luzon counterparts.
Chef Waya Araos-Wijangco from the Cordillera Administrative Region, the Executive Chef of Gypsy Baguio, had to find a kitchen 2 km away to cook her dishes and then run a 500m dash to present the arancini and pinikpikan rillette. While many chefs we invited from Metro Manila complained about the lack of resources during this lunch, chefs like Waya go the extra mile for the love of gastronomy and their country.
NOTABLE GASTRONOMY PRESENTATIONS
Get inspired: Cebu Food and Wine Festival (Philippines)
by Ms. Kate Anzani, Founder and Chairperson, Cebu Food and Wine Festival (Philippines)
The Cebu Food and Wine Festival sparked a revolution of gastronomy festivals across the country, now spreading to Manila, Davao, Ilocos, and Tagaytay. The festival’s DNA is chef-led, showcasing local and endemic ingredients to bridge food culture and connection. Now in its fourth year, it features a month-long celebration culminating with the UN Tourism Forum. Galing!
Get inspired: Jeju Tourism Organization (Republic of Korea)
by Ms. Jung Jiwon, Manager, Jeju Tourism Organization (Republic of Korea)
Jeju Island Tourism Villages was inspiring because the DNA of this campaign is community-led and features the residents and their heritage traditions. They highlight their camellia forest, incorporating it into the food experience in the wild, and offer “Kareum Stays” (meaning small village) for an immersive experience that showcases the charm of Jeju’s local communities.
Get inspired: Iloilo City (Philippines)
by Ms. Leny Ledesma, Executive Assistant for Special Projects, Iloilo Gastronomy Technical Team (Philippines)
It was impressive and inspiring to see how the Iloilo community united in their common cause to promote their gastronomy across different terroirs—upland, lowlands, and coastline—that define the people and their food. I love Ilonggo food, perhaps because of my Diaz heritage from Capiz. La Paz Batchoy is my go-to soul food, and the seafood from the Iloilo coastline is legendary for its freshness, sweetness, and value for money. Congrats!
Panel Debate Slow Food Negros Island (Philippines)
by Ms. Doreen Alicia Gamboa, President, Slow Food Community Promoting and Preserving Traditional Food of Negros Island (Philippines)
I’m starting to understand what Slow Food truly is and how it promotes good, clean, and fair food. This means food that is organically and naturally produced, tastes good, and is sold at a fair price that respects the process and the farmers behind it. I love how they develop community experiences (rather than just food or gastronomy tours) that immerse you in the food cultivation process, starting with a coffee trail experience. Kudos to Negros for its vision to become the Slow Food hub in Asia and for inspiring other communities to do the same. They are battling bad agricultural practices and preserving heritage ingredients through their Ark of Taste program.
Cebu Call to Action on Gastronomy Tourism
To be honest, the Cebu Call to Action on Gastronomy Tourism was met with a lot of cynicism, as it felt like a contrived list created without consultation, meetings, or regard for reality. However, it is a good starting point for the Department of Tourism to promote gastronomy tourism as a strategy and turn it into reality. I’m energized and optimistic that:
- The Five-Year Gastronomy Tourism Strategy Framework will be completed for the Philippines and rolled out to all the DOT regional teams to reframe their food tourism programs.
- Currently, there is no budget for gastronomy tourism work—chefs are paid with exposure, food tour guide programs are non-existent, food and wine festivals are not funded, and everything feels like it’s just for show. I’m optimistic that this Cebu Call to Action will change all that. (There are some exceptions like DOT NCR who fully supports Gastronomy Tourism in Metro Manila)
- As long as Culinary Arts is not recognized as a Culinary Heritage and an Art Form by the National Commission for Culture and the Arts and the Philippine Government, our gastronomy programs won’t take off. The LGUs (local government units) won’t prioritize or allocate resources to support it without this recognition. Hopefully, Senator Loren Legarda and the DOT leadership can change this. Can we have a National Artists for Culinary?
CHEF’S TABLE: A PHILIPPINE GASTRONOMIC EXPERIENCE
The UN Tourism Forum concluded with a Philippine gastronomic dinner led by 12 of the country’s best chefs. I would like to highlight our favorites and extend kudos to all the chefs!
MARGARITA FORES @margaritafores AND MIKO CALO @miko.calo
Bulacan River Prawn, Beppino
Castelmagno Tinigib Polenta, Sauce Matelote Philippine Fish Maw
It was awesome to see Gaita cooking for all of us in collaboration with Chef Miko, regarded as an expert in Modern Filipino-French cuisine. I loved how their collaborative creation featured local ingredients like prawn, polenta, and sauce, all presented with beautiful plating. They had the longest line, and it was such a treat to experience this collaborative dish for one night only.
AARON ISIP @aaronisip
Sweet-Savory Kakanin: Grilled Tupig, Tinapa Mascarpone, Smoked Caviar
This was mind-blowing: elevating the heritage Tupig of Ilocos with mascarpone flavored with Tinapa and unlimited smoked caviar. I had two servings and wanted more because it was so good. This is Chef Aaron’s signature dish and reason enough to visit Casa Palma to taste and enjoy it.
CARLOS VILLAFLOR @carlosvillaflor AND KEVIN NAVOA @navgram_
Lightly-smoked Blue Marlin
Kalinga Black Rice Buro fermented with Mangoes
It was awesome to see our young Filipino chefs, Carlos of Gallery by Chele and Kevin of Hapag, collaborate on this smoked blue marlin dish on a bed of black rice and buro fermented with mango. It looked messy and difficult to assemble, but the flavors of the sea and the mountains were incredible. So good!
SAU DEL ROSARIO @chefsau
Shell Crab with Aligue Fermented Rice (Buro) topped with Soft Shell Crumbs wrapped on Betel served with Brined Caramay and Pickled Carissa
Chef Sau’s soft shell crab with aligue fermented rice showcased his Pampanga roots and flair for mixing ingredients to create an explosion of unique flavors. His food is consistently excellent in every collaboration or dinner we’ve attended.
It was such a treat to experience the creations of the celebrated chefs of the Philippines!
* MIKO ASPIRAS @chefmikoaspiras
Adobo sa Puti Madeleines
Champorado Tart
* MIGUEL MORENA @aldomiggy and DATU SHARIFF PENDATUN @shariffdontlikeit
Flavors of the Thalassic South
* TATUNG SARTHOU @cheftatung
Sweet-Savory Kakanin: Pintos
* REGGIE ASPIRAS @iamreggieaspiras AND JESSIE SINCIOCO
Imbaliktad
Kilawing Hipon
Pansit Puso
Dalamansi
* DESSERT BY CHEF JESSIE @chefjessiesincioco
Biko with Sweet Ripe Cebu Mango and Sikwate Dark and White Auro Chocolate Mousse with Candied Cebu Dried Mango
Cheese and Mango Balls
FEAST OF FLAVORS AT JPARK:
Cebu Food & Wine Festival Finale
Congratulations to Cebu Food & Wine Festival for a one month long celebration with the finale dinner featuring JPark’s latest dining destination, Galo Grill and Bar, located on the 12th floor of the new J Tower building.
Congratulations to @ChefWaya, Chef @Kalel_Chan, Chef Andrew Malarky @so_drelicious, and @LiquidoMaestro_Kalel for making the finale a success.
My favorites were Chef Kalel’s Kilawin Leche de Tigre and Crab Tuslob Buwa-inspired creation, rich with shrimp brains and aligue. Chef Waya featured her Chong-ak Bu-o Arancini, Pinikpikan Rilette with Bignay Wine Gelee, and Crispy Chicken Skin. Chef Andrew showcased his Tuna Ceviche Taco and Pork Fried Bun specialty from Wild. Kalel, known as Liquido Maestro, impressed with his drinks: Pag-Ubeg sa Kanto, Popcorn Sour, and Gayuma ng Sirena.
Crab Tuslob Buwa by Chef Kalel
Inspired by the popular Cebuano street food Tuslob Buwa, which uses pork liver and brains, this creation features soft shell crab brain, aligue, meat, and caviar for an explosion of crab flavors. It should be paired with bread or crackers to complete the experience. Additionally, a bit of chili would be nice to cut through the rich umami of the crab flavors.
Kilwain Leche de Tigre in Coconut by Chef Kalel
This kilawin is served without vinegar, using lime acid to create a milky sauce, and presented in a well-trimmed coconut shell. I love indulging in the flavors, knowing that it is both healthy and special, surpassing any other kilawin on the table.
JPark Island Resort has welcomed a new Executive Chef, Yi-Fan Chu, a Taiwanese chef fresh from his culinary stint in Thailand. He is set to elevate all the dining outlets and create Jpark Island Resort’s newest dining gem, Galo Grill and Bar, the place to be with a stunning view of the Cebu sea.
Congratulations to Kate Anzani and the Cebu Food & Wine Team for a job well done with the month-long celebration, culminating in the UN Gastronomy Tourism Forum!
FINAL THOUGHTS
We have a long way to go to become a gastro-tourism powerhouse in Asia, but the journey starts here. Since I began blogging in 2005, progress in elevating our gastronomy has been slow, hindered by corruption scandals involving gastronomy tourism budgets and a lack of strategy for food tourism. The pandemic changed all that. With the growing appreciation for Filipino food, street food, endemic ingredients, the Slow Food movement, and food & wine festivals, and with the commitment of the DOT and government stakeholders, we are taking the first step to advance our culinary scene to become the newest culinary center in Asia.
The key to unlocking our gastronomy tourism success lies in the Gen Z Filipino youth’s appreciation for quality, the stories behind the food, and the celebration of our heritage and culinary traditions. I’m passionate about gastronomy and sharing it with the world because this is the legacy I want to leave for my kids and the next generation. 2024 is a pivotal moment for Philippine gastronomy, and I extend my gratitude to Sec. Frasco for putting a stake in the ground and committing to making it happen.
Live an Awesome Life,
Founder & Digital Creator, Our Awesome Planet
Disclosure: I wrote this article 100% by a human with my biases, opinions, and insights. I was hosted by the Cebu Food & Wine Festival team.
P.S. I attended the Dalaguete & Argao Culinary Tour in the south of Cebu on the 2nd day of the forum, and it perfectly showcased what a true gastronomy experience is versus what it is not.
ARGAO
Argao is a special place, and we were greeted by youth tour guides. The music, dances, food, and hospitality were top-notch, culminating in a three-canyon salute.
The food was served by its purveyors, who explained each dish and demonstrated how the Torta or meatballs were made, enhancing our appreciation of the meal.
All the stops featured lechon, but Argao’s was particularly flavorful and best paired with suka.
I loved this version of Humba and was interested in learning more about its heritage.
I left Argao full of questions about its food and walled-town heritage, with a resolve to return.
DALAGUETE
Dalaguete, on the other hand, showcased its food in a traditional, old-fashioned manner.
The snacks were simply displayed on a buffet table with no one explaining what they were.
The food was served buffet style, but one dish stood out: grilled Saba stuffed with meat. Unfortunately, no one could explain the story behind the dish.
Lechon is always a highlight, but it’s the same in any Cebu town. I left Dalaguete with a vivid memory of its beautiful church museum but nothing memorable about its food.
The post STATE OF PHILIPPINE GASTRONOMY TOURISM: Key Insights from First UN Tourism Regional Forum in Cebu appeared first on Awesome! - Our Awesome Planet.